For buyers · new construction

The model home is beautiful. The paperwork is where it’s decided.

A large share of what sells in Tracy, Manteca, Lathrop, River Islands and Mountain House is new build. It can be an excellent purchase. But it runs on different rules from a resale — a different contract, a different negotiation, and a tax bill most buyers meet for the first time after they have moved in.

Before you tour anything, read this one paragraph. Most builders require your agent to register you, or to be physically with you, on your first visit to the sales office. Walk in alone on a Saturday out of curiosity and you can lose the right to be represented on that community entirely — not just with me, with anyone. It is not a rule you can talk your way out of afterwards, because it protects the builder from paying twice.

It costs you nothing to be registered. It costs you your representation not to be. Send me the community name and I’ll register you before you go — it takes about five minutes.

The thing nobody says out loud

The person at the desk is very good, and they do not work for you

Builder sales representatives are professional, knowledgeable and often genuinely pleasant. They are also employed by the builder, paid by the builder, and have a duty to the builder. That is not a criticism — it is simply their job.

What it means in practice: they will answer the questions you ask accurately, and they are under no obligation to raise the questions you did not think to ask. The gap between those two things is where new-construction buyers lose money.

Having your own representation costs you nothing at the sales office — builders budget for it, and it is not added to your price. Going without it does not get you a discount. It just means nobody in the room is reading the contract on your behalf.

What I do that the sales office won’t

Not adversarial. Just the other side of the table being occupied.

·

Read the purchase agreement properly

It is the builder’s own form, not the standard California contract. The differences matter, and they are not highlighted.

·

Price the tax before you commit

The CFD and any services special tax for that specific lot — from the district’s own published rates, not an estimate.

·

Push on what actually moves

Base price usually will not. Several other things will, and they are worth more than most buyers realise.

·

Insist on independent inspections

Including one before the drywall goes up, while problems are still visible and cheap to fix.

·

Compare the financing honestly

The builder’s incentive may be worth taking. Sometimes it is not. That is arithmetic, not loyalty.

The negotiation

Base price is the one thing they will defend hardest

And it is the one thing most buyers spend all their effort on.

Why the price on the board rarely moves

A builder is not selling one house. They are selling a phase, and then the next phase. Every recorded sale becomes a comparable — for the appraiser on the next buyer’s loan, and for the families who bought last month at full price. Cutting the base price on your home damages both. So they hold it.

What they will do instead is give you value that does not show up in the recorded sale price. That is not a trick. It is simply where the room is, and knowing that changes what you ask for.

Where the room usually is

01

Design centre allowance

Upgrades are priced with margin in them. An allowance is often easier for a builder to give than a price cut, and it can be substantial.

02

Closing-cost credit

Frequently the largest single concession available — and frequently tied to using the builder’s affiliated lender. More on that below.

03

Lot premium

Premiums on specific lots are set by the builder, and on a slower-moving lot they are not always immovable.

04

Included options

Blinds, landscaping, appliances, a garage finish. Individually small, collectively not.

The incentive most people accept without checking

“Use our lender and we’ll credit you at closing”

This is extremely common, entirely legal, and sometimes a genuinely good deal. It is also the single place I most often find that a buyer is worse off than they think.

A builder cannot require you to use their affiliated lender. They can, and do, condition the incentive on it. So the real question is never “is the credit big?” — it is “is the credit bigger than what this loan costs me compared to the best loan I could otherwise get?”

To answer that you need both offers written down, on comparable terms, and you need to look at more than the headline rate: the points being charged, the lender fees, the actual monthly payment, and what happens to the rate if the build runs long and your lock expires. A credit that looks generous can be funded by a rate that costs more over the years you hold the loan — or it can be exactly what it appears to be. Both happen.

My part is simple: I ask for both loan estimates side by side and go through them with you, line by line, before you decide. If the builder’s offer wins, take it — I have told clients to do exactly that. The point is to know, rather than assume.

I am a licensed real estate salesperson, not a mortgage lender, broker or loan originator, and I hold no NMLS licence. Nothing here is a loan offer, a quote, or lending advice. Compare written Loan Estimates and speak with licensed lenders about your own situation.

The document you actually sign

It is not the contract you would sign on a resale

On a resale in California you would normally use the standard association purchase agreement, which is a negotiated, balanced form. Builders use their own. Ask specifically about each of these — the answers vary by builder and by community.

1

Your deposit

How much, when it becomes non-refundable, and what happens to it if you cannot close. Builder deposits are often larger than resale deposits and become at risk sooner.

2

Your contingencies

Whether you have a meaningful inspection or appraisal contingency at all, and how long it runs. This is often much narrower than buyers assume.

3

The completion date

Builders reserve flexibility on delivery. Understand what “estimated” means here, and what recourse you have if it slips past your rate lock or your lease ending.

4

Dispute resolution

Many builder contracts specify binding arbitration and limit your remedies. That is a real term with real consequences, and it is worth reading before, not after.

5

Changes and substitutions

The builder’s right to substitute materials or alter plans, and whether the model home finishes you fell in love with are actually included.

6

The warranty

What is covered and for how long, plus California’s statutory construction-defect scheme — which gives the builder a defined right to repair before you can act.

The step people skip

Yes, you should inspect a brand new house

“It’s new, and the city inspected it” is the most expensive sentence in new construction.

Municipal inspection checks compliance with code. It is not the same as an inspection carried out on your behalf, by someone you are paying, looking for things that will cost you money. Homes are built by people, at speed, in weather, by many different trades who never meet each other. Things get missed. That is normal and not scandalous — it is exactly why you look.

The one most buyers have never heard of is the pre-drywall inspection. There is a short window after framing, plumbing, electrical and ducting are in but before the walls are closed up. For that period, the bones of your house are visible. Afterwards they are behind drywall for the next fifty years.

An independent inspector walking that stage will catch things that are trivial to fix while open and genuinely disruptive to fix later. Then a full inspection before closing, and a proper walkthrough with a punch list that gets documented rather than promised verbally.

The inspection sequence I ask for

Three points, and the reason for each.

01

Pre-drywall

While framing, wiring, plumbing and ducts are still visible. The only chance you will ever get.

02

Full inspection before closing

The finished house, by your inspector, not the builder’s. Findings go on the punch list in writing.

03

Before the warranty period ends

A revisit while items are still the builder’s responsibility. Diarised, because the date passes quietly.

The part that changes the monthly number

New communities are where Mello-Roos lives

The infrastructure around a new development — the schools, the roads, the parks — was paid for with bonds. Those bonds are repaid by the homeowners, through a special tax on the property tax bill, for decades.

This is disclosed to you. It appears in the paperwork as required. But it appears as one line among many in a thick pack, at a moment when you are excited and signing a lot of things, and it is not a percentage of value — it is its own formula, usually based on square footage, which is why two similar houses on the same street can pay noticeably different amounts.

Three things about it that surprise people: it does not fall when the market falls; in some districts it rises automatically every year for the life of the bonds; and in Mountain House specifically there are two separate special taxes from two different agencies, not one.

There is also a supplemental tax bill that arrives months after you close, is not usually covered by your impound account, and catches almost every first-time new-construction buyer.

This is my job, not your homework. For any address you are considering I pull the district, the published rate and the actual figures, and tell you the real monthly cost before you write anything. If you would rather check the arithmetic yourself, it is all published:

The Mountain House rates, in detail Run the numbers yourself

Timing

Phases, and why the same house costs different amounts

Builders release homes in phases. Prices typically step up as a community sells through — that is the intended pattern, not a coincidence. Early phases can price lower, but you are buying into a construction site with an unproven community. Later phases cost more but you can see what you are getting.

Neither is right. What matters is knowing which phase you are in, what the previous phase actually closed at, and whether the premium on your specific lot is defensible. Those are knowable facts, and I check them before you commit rather than after.

Upgrades

Choose the ones that cannot be added later

Structural options — a room configuration, an extra window, plumbing rough-in, electrical placement, ceiling height — must be decided very early and are effectively impossible to change afterwards. Finishes can nearly always be done later, often for less than the design centre charges.

The other half of that: upgrades do not automatically return their cost at appraisal or at resale. Spending heavily at the design centre and expecting the valuation to follow is a common and expensive assumption. I will tell you which is which, plainly, even when it is less fun to hear.

Before you visit a sales office

Tell me which community and I’ll do the work

Send me the builder and community name. I’ll register you so your representation is protected, pull the CFD and tax figures for those lots, and tell you what the monthly cost actually looks like — before you sit down at anyone’s desk. No charge, no obligation, and no appointment needed to start.

Send me the community Call (209) 666-4024

Already visited a sales office on your own? Tell me anyway. Depending on the builder and how far along you are, there may still be options — and if there are not, I will tell you that straight rather than waste your time.